Short Runs

Sustainable Downscaling

Short run production can allow for local sourcing closer to market needs, but also presents a number of challenges that can be addressed through TCBL.

We can identify three groups:

  1. Textile manufacturers willing to produce short run capacity, e.g. during down time, or wish to broaden their offer or have leftover fabric to sell. This might include textile manufacturers which may “over-produce” on purpose with large orders in order to diversify their business positioning, something they are keen to do.
  2. Garment manufacturers who range from the at home sewer to the small Cut, Make & Trim (CMT) unit. This could include the larger scale garment manufacturers who need to down-scale because of pressures to reduce numbers and through skills shortages.
  3. Designers who want to design and sell small lots, potentially by grouping together to increase buying power.

Match making opportunities can be engineered via an online platform created or adapted for this purpose. Such a platform will allow for the development of two options: firstly, CMT manufacturers to bid for jobs posted by designers; secondly, for manufacturers to post any excess stock to sell. Quality standards and kite marks held by manufacturers will be included in an element of quality assurance but the process will be essentially self-moderating and can be achieved using TripAdvisor style feedback. The same model applies for those manufacturers wishing to offload stocks of excess cloth, which could also offer opportunities for designers to aggregate demand.

A special issue of the TCBL_zine is under preparation for all of the Business Cases, with publication scheduled for #TCBL_2017 in Athens on June 20th. To access the Call for Papers for the issue on Short Runs, click here.

For further information on the Short Runs Business Case, contact Bill Macbeth.

Who's involved

Countries to participate: UK, Italy, Slovenia and Romania.

UK:                

Antich & Sons - http://www.cj-antich.com/  

The company is a commission weaver, warper and mender of the Yorkshire fine worsted industry, producing the finest British worsted cloth for the world’s best known fashion brands. It can offer an ability to give customers a complete service, covering every option from the yarn through to the garment. To complement its cloth production it has expanded into the production of high end tailored men’s suits available from its onsite tailoring facility, and also supplies independent bespoke tailors.

Pennine Weavers - http://pennineweavers.co.uk/

The company is a commission weaver, warper and mender of wool and worsted cloths and has the flexibility to manufacture short runs from 12m to bulk orders of 3,000m. Its design team can collaborate with clients to design new cloths.

AW Hainsworth - http://www.awhainsworth.co.uk/

Hainsworth started manufacturing woollen cloth in Yorkshire in 1783. The company produces ceremonial cloth, protective fabrics, interior and sports fabrics and cloth for military uniforms. In addition, it offers 100,000 square feet of previous manufacturing and warehouse space, developing new, purpose-built ‘innovation incubator’ spaces.

Fashion Enter - http://www.fashion-enter.com/

Fashion Enter is a not for profit, social enterprise, which strives to be a centre of excellence for sampling, grading, production and for learning and development of skills within the fashion and textiles industry. It has a factory for large scale production and a fashion studio for grading, sampling and small productions runs. Both units are Sedex approved and produce for leading retailers, etailers, designers and new business startups. The company offers an online fabric purchasing service for short runs.

Rita Britton / Nomad Atelier - http://www.nomadatelier.co.uk/

Nomad manufactures and sells clothes and accessories for ladies. Rita’s store, The Tobacco Warehouse, has been fully restored as a 21st Century luxury emporium, showcasing the Nomad collection of cashmere, silk, and leather accessories. Sourcing fabric in small quantities is a barrier to production.

Stephanie Hoole

Stephanie is a start-up company of Performance sportswear for ladies to be sold online and as a concession to large stores. She needs to source technical sports fabrics and specialist sportswear manufacturers as well as technical trims and a manufacturer who can make functional bra tops. She would also benefit from support for fits-development stages.

Louise Stocks Young/ LYS Atelier

Louise would like to offer a unique denim smock dress to the 30-50+ woman. Initially in 3x silhouettes with various design details of 3x colour offers: Black/Indigo/Cool grey. Where possible she would like to source the fabric and trims from Europe and manufacture in the UK, she is keen to use organic and ethically sound fabrics and wash processes.

Italy:             

Trafi Creatività Tessile - http://www.trafi.it/

Trafi gives the fashion world the opportunity to go beyond the old traditions of the textile industry by offering treatments that allow the creation of innovative textile products. Trafi works with recycled waste and offers dyeing and needle-punching expertise amongst other areas.

Lanificio Paoletti - http://www.lanificiopaoletti.it/

Founded in 1795, this woolen mill produces high quality textiles for the most prestigious fashion brands in Europe, America and East Asia. The mill is seeking for innovative ideas on product, production and sustainability. It is also committed in the valorisation of the rough local wool and periodically encourages artists, designers and fashion students in reinventing the tradition and identifying innovative textiles solutions.

Tessitura La Colombina - Nicki Colombo - http://www.nickicolombo.com/

The company is a spinning and weaving mill founded in 1895. It produces high quality fashion accessories and products for Italian and foreign brands. Although having modern machineries, in recent years most of the silk and wool fabrics are handmade with looms dated from the 19th century.

A.MA - St.Georges - http://www.stgeorges.it/

This knitwear factory was founded in 1955 and is actually run by a young woman, Mara Collodel.  St.Georges designs women’s clothes using wool and mohair for winter and elasticized viscose for the summer collections. The whole production is local and great attention is given to the quality of fabrics and the wearability of clothes.

Maison De Caro - http://www.maisondecaro.it/

This small atelier, run by two young brothers, Elena and Davide, has recently moved into an old abandoned printing company where the full production cycle is assured. Maison De Caro actually produces made to measure men’s shirts and children clothes. Elena and Davide are also willing to cooperate with designers and develop new products.

Slovenia:     

Tatjana Kalamar Fashion http://tatikalamar.com/

Tatjana is a textile design expert with special graphic skills (portraits) and interest to innovate new textile products.  She has more than 20 years of experiences in big textile industries and fashion, she has knowledge on textile materials and also works for medium sized Slovenian textile industry producers.

Titera d.o.o. http://titerad.com/

Titera is run by Dr. Daniela Zavec Pavlinic, president of Slovenian Textile Association and president of Quality association of Pomurje region. She also works in University as professor. Titera is specialized in the textile, especially application kinesiology – that can be important in the different textile uses (for protection, army, workers, firemen, outdoor…). She is also producing natural and health-friendly clothing from bamboo materials.

Komet d.d. http://komet-metlika.si/

Komet d.d. is specialized in the production of women underwear. Komet is present in Slovenia, Croatia, Macedonia, Serbia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Germany and Israel. They have two subsidiaries in Croatia and Serbia, actively contributing to the success of the Komet brand. The company's main activities are design and marketing of women's underwear. They are up-to-date with the latest technological innovations when choosing and working with modern materials. Komet Underwear is designed in accordance with the latest trends and aims to please a wide range of customers. From those who believe in elegance and functionality to those who want to follow the latest trends. Today Komet is a synonym for high-quality, functional and fashionable women's underwear, which tries to satisfy the demands of a woman who is confident, fashionable, elegant, and proud to express her femininity.

Dali sport d.o.o. http://www.dalisport.com/  

Dali sport is specialized in the custom-made textiles. Their services include but are not limited to: embroidery, t-shirt & textile printing,  sport suits (rowing, ski diving...), promotional apparel (earbands, rollis, hats...), –flags, banners, and windsacks, hiking pants, jackets, and other apparel.  They produce FIS and non-FIS ski jumping suits as well as other ski jumping accessories including undersuits, gloves, and souvenirs.

Beti Metlika d.o.o. http://beti.si/

Beti d.d is one of the leading European manufacturers of dyed polyamid yarns. More than 90% of sales created by exports on the markets of USA, EU Russia and the Middle East. The company employs more than 150 people and is among the largest employers in Bela krajina. Beti preja d.o.o. is the producer of polyamide, polyester raw and dyed textured yarns, and wrapped elastanes. The company has a long tradition in the production, in the past for the needs of hosier’s industry, fabrics.

Information providers:

Prato Expo (Italy)offers an ecommerce platform selling short runs of fabrics from Italian manufacturers via http://www.pratoexpo.com/.

Sqetch provides a means of putting textiles and clothing brands and manufacturers in touch with each other via https://sqetch.co/. The site has a European focus so is ideal for TCBL members.

Make it British is an excellent source of information on British-made brands and UK manufacturing. It’s is an independent company founded and run by Kate Hills. It features a directory including clothing and accessories via https://makeitbritish.co.uk/about/.

Goals and targets

Key dates

1.       Produce a basic blueprint of the model – end of March

2.       Test the model with the industry in Prato, Italy, mid-April

3.       Design to sale steps identified and agreed – end of May

4.       Working model with example transactions to be demonstrated – end of September

The platform can achieve self-sustainability via fees from either or both of supplier and designer, use of NDA templates etc.